North West Cape, Western Australia

Nyinggulu Country – traditional lands of the Baiyungu and Yinigudura people

Tim Winton’s TV doco on ‘Ningaloo’ was not our first inspiration to get across to WA and check out North West Cape. We had long held a desire to swim with whale sharks, and Ningaloo is one of the prime spots in the world to do this, with the most ethical and ecologically-sound operators in the business. So, we flew across the country in July to try our luck, choosing a time of year where the whale shark and humpback whale seasons overlap in the hope of seeing both marine legends.

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EXMOUTH

Exmouth is the only town on the peninsula, and as such is a great place to start your explorations of the cape. The friendly staff at the Ningaloo Visitor Centre are happy to help if you haven’t already planned your time in the area. We added some walking trails and prime viewing spots to our tight itinerary, including Charles Knife Canyon and sunrise at Pebble Beach.

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Our beachfront bungalow at Mantarays Ningaloo Beach Resort with views of Exmouth Gulf was the top end accommodation choice in town, but there are plenty of other options to suit all budgets. Staying at Mantarays also provided us with easy access to the premium dining spot in town with finely prepared, locally sourced foods to tempt us, including the seafood the area is famous for.

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Our views of Sunrise Beach are gorgeous, and not only at sunrise! The sound of the water lapping and kids laughing is all about summer…who would think we were in winter?! Although first thing of a morning was a sharp reminder of the truth of the season!

SWIMMING WITH WHALE SHARKS
Live Ningaloo

There are several Ningaloo Reef dive and snorkel tour companies to choose from operating out of Exmouth. We went with a personal recommendation and booked well in advance with Live Ningaloo. They offer the smallest size tour group of all the operators, a maximum 10 guests on their 40ft-luxury vessel ‘Wave Rider’, and their guides are marine biologists.

Our tour began with a snorkel in the lagoon which served two purposes – to get us all excited for what lay ahead and for our guides to suss out our capabilities to keep us all safe. Due to the currents, the water in the lagoon was cool, but bearable for the short amount of time we were in there (average water temperature at Ningaloo in July is 24°C).

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We had a crazy whale shark experience, and according to the tour guides and marine biologists, not at all how things usually roll! Our briefing for swimming with the whale sharks was clear and precise. We had to be ready to jump in when we were told, “GO, GO, GO!” and immediately form a single file line in the water next to Katie (our guide) facing in the direction she was pointing. When the whale shark would swim past, we were to flank them swimming in a V formation, always staying a minimum of 3 metres from them and never swimming in front of them or near their heads. This was so the humans were not creating any impediment to the natural behaviour of the whale shark. Copy that. Understood. However, this whale shark was not swimming in a straight line at all, he was a curious fish and was following the swimmers instead. We were all trying to get alongside of him, but he was turning in circles to check us out, so we were constantly, frantically trying to get out of his way! It was hilarious! Katie was having to physically drag swimmers out of the way to prevent any contact with the whale shark happening – she got such a workout!

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As this was the only whale shark the spotters found on this day, he was all we had to work with. We were lucky enough to have 4 swims with this goofy whale shark and he behaved the same way each time. Our photographer, Tash, valiantly did her best to capture a moment of us each next to him, but it was a difficult shoot for her!

After the shenanigans with the whale shark in the open water we got back on board and headed back into the lagoon waters along the coast for some lunch and a final snorkel. While snorkelling we saw an array of fish and coral, but the extra bonus here was sighting a wedgefish (Rhinidae; 90% critically endangered in the world). From the boat we saw dugongs, turtles, dolphins and humpback whales (referred to by the locals as ‘humpies’).

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In the lagoon waters along the coast, we stopped for a delicious lunch and a final snorkel for the day, seeing an array of fish and coral. Then, perched on the bow, we headed back to the dock sipping a bucket-list celebratory glass of prosecco. This was a glorious day with Live Ningaloo, and we would love to return at different times of the year to do their other tours.

All photos for this tour were supplied by Live Ningaloo marine biologist and photographer, Tash Logvinskaia.

CAPE RANGE NATIONAL PARK

Cape Range National Park is a popular destination for holiday makers of all ages and diverse land and sea interests. For those wishing to pitch their tents or park their motorhomes, bookings for sites are a must, and if you don’t plan ahead, you could miss out.

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On our drive from Exmouth to Sal Salis we stopped a couple of times for some pics. The first spot was on the point of North Cape at the site of the SS Mildura wreck. The second stop was at Vlamingh Head Lighthouse, which was built after the shipwreck. In WWII a radar was built next to the lighthouse and the remains of the tower and some of the sandbags at its base are still there. Vlamingh Head is one of the few places in Australia where you can observe both the sunrise and sunset.

Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef

We chose to stay in the only accommodation situated in the Cape Range National Park. Sal Salis is an eco-luxury lodge with only a handful of safari tents just metres from the World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Reef. With super-comfortable beds that are nothing at all like ‘camping’, an open bar in the lodge and five-star dining with matching wines for evening meals, this is the perfect (and most indulgent!) way to experience this unique part of Australia. We joyfully embraced being ‘off-grid’ for our three-night stay and focused on relaxation and the land, sea, sky and people around us.

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All-inclusive guided excursions provided us with memories of sunrise at Yardie Creek and Mandu Mandu Gorges, snorkelling at Turquoise and Osprey Bays, and stargazing at a sky like we have never seen before. Each immersion experience in the natural world was exceptional, with sightings of shy rock wallabies, ospreys on nests and soaring in search of breakfast, turtles coming up for air alongside us while snorkelling, and flirty bluespotted fantail rays along the water’s edge of our private beach.

For a detailed account of this resort and its surrounds, check out our post here.

Birds Eye View

After experiencing North West Cape by car, foot and fins, our final adventure was by air, specifically a microlight flight with ‘Birds Eye View’. We opted for a 90min ‘Norcape Explorer’ flight, which took us in an anti-clockwise circle around the tip of the cape, flying low enough to see humpies and rays in the waters offshore. The highlight was spotting a white baby humpback whale, less than a day old, flanking its mother travelling north along the coast.

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John went up with Duncan de Koning (who was also a mad photographer), and I was flying with Mark Pottinger (Potti). This was an amazing experience on the micro-lights! So freeing, so exhilarating. Flying back across the peninsula over the canyons and gorges of Cape Range to the airfield, our pilots offered us ‘a go’ at flying the aircraft. Neither of us could turn down that opportunity and revelled in the exhilaration in guiding the microlight for a brief time back towards the airstrip.

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For those who become hooked through this experience, this trial introductory flight contributes to your hours if you want to pursue your solo Pilot Certificate through 12-18 hours of flying lessons. When we mentioned our microlight flight plans to other travellers, the first response was why would we go up in the air in a “lawn mower strapped to a hang-glider”? Our answer was: “why wouldn’t we?” As with all our experiences on North West Cape, our safety was the operator’s top priority, with our enjoyment coming a close second.

All photos for this tour were supplied by Birds Eye View.

Ningaloo is on the travel wish list of many; the snorkelling is exquisite and easy to access, and the potential for sighting and swimming with the big marine beasts in season is almost guaranteed. But the ancient history of its land formations and people are equally fascinating and beautiful. It is clear why the continued conservation of the lands, waters and air of Ningaloo is crucial. Birds Eye View

LINKED POSTS: The detailed account of our stay at Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef Safari Camp can be found here

Accommodation: Mantarays Ningaloo Beach Resort, Sal Salis

Tours: Live Ningaloo, Birds Eye View

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About bontaks

Nic is the the 'Bon' part of 'Bontaks.' Together we are Nic and John - two travel-addicted teachers who enjoy every opportunity to go places, meet people and experience life.

One Reply to “North West Cape, Western Australia”

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