Lovely Lucca

Manhole cover

Okay, now this is (so far) our favourite city in Italy (and not just because it’s flat!). Maybe it was walking from the railway station on a stinking hot day after being in a non-airconditioned train for an hour and a half, through the city walls into a piazza lined with huge beautiful plane trees making a shady avenue for us to walk to our B&B that started our love affair with Lucca. Maybe it’s the gorgeous old buildings and the true locals hanging out with the tourists (of which there are few after the groups leave of an afternoon) in the many family run trattorias, osterias and pizzerias. There is still plenty of good shopping to be had, but the whole city doesn’t feel to be geared to that.

Guess the flavour…

Intricate shell carving

Lucca street

Our accommodation came with free tickets to a classical concert in a gorgeous church – San Giovanni (obviously not the same one mentioned on previous blog posts!). It was a combination of Puccini (of course!) and Verdi – all the favourites thrown together for a very pleasant evening with a tenor (who looked too much like Newman from Seinfeld to be taken seriously) and soprano and piano accompanist. Lovely way to be introduced to the city. Dinner was a simple but scrummy pizza and corona on the previously mentioned Piazza Napoleone (the one with the trees). There was plenty of action happening in all of the nearby squares due to an election on Sunday. So there were several platforms set up for bands and politicians to rant. Particularly liked the rag-time marching band keeping us entertained while eating pizza. Very enjoyable evening all round really. We were both completely knackered and a little dehydrated from our very hot and sweaty (and not in a good way!) train trip, so we had an early night.

See…doesn’t he look like Newman from Seinfeld?!

Dixieland jazz…in Italy!

A suit-wearing, bicycle-riding local

No, not rusty tools, but…CHOCOLATE!

Our next day was spent getting to know the town. That began with a bike ride on the city walls. Excellent idea considering it was shaping up to be another hot one and the top of the wall was lined with more magnificent plane trees to shade us. Nothing like hooning along on a bike when it’s smooth, flat terrain and there is a cool breeze. The butts were mighty sore when we were done though. Bit out of condition for the whole bicycle seat scenario – especially when they are old, hard, very unforgiving saddles! Not like a spin class at all!

Nic on a bike

John and Nic, window shopping

Walked to the local markets to buy some fresh veges for dinner (there does seem to be a shortage of a range of veges on the menus here). Found the only small supermarket within the city walls and were very pleased to get some good wine at a great price as well as some 50% cocoa lindt chocolate on special (will be going back to stock up on that before we leave).

San Salvatore with it’s gorgeous golden mosaic

Closer detail

Went to a local, family run restaurant called ‘Leo’s’ for lunch and they gave us huge serves of pasta and salad and very friendly service. AND their bread had salt in it!! VERY happy about that – traditionally, bread in Tuscany has no salt so it’s pretty blah (guess you don’t eat as much of it that way!). Were pretty full after that feed, we didn’t even have room for an afternoon gelato. We DID however, manage to fit in an afternoon nap, and not one of our usual 15 minute jobs – a full hour! Man, it was good! Were still full after our nap (surprising how a sleep doesn’t work off that food!) so skipped our planned cooked dinner and had some fruit, wine and left over cheese. Perfect.

Piazza Napoleone

Lucca would be a lovely place to live

Visited a big home and garden called Palazzo Pfanner that was used in Jane Campion’s film Portrait of a Lady (which we still haven’t seen – we’ll have to now!) Pretty fab. Love looking at how the other half lived once (or even now!)

Bench at Palazzo Pfanner

View from the balcony of Palazzo Pfanner

Nic looking at previous view

Took ourselves off to another free concert that completely blew us away with how wonderful it was. It was a visiting choral group from Bradley University in Illinois. We got 2 hours of non-stop superb singing, and it really was superb. We both preferred it to the ‘professionals’ of the evening before; heavenly, as befitted the setting (one of the 70 churches in Lucca). Some true standouts in the group who could easily make it in the professional world. They were accompanied by a string trio – as equally talented as the singers. One of the best nights of the whole trip.

Church sans choral singers…

…With choral singers

Sunday was spent slobbing about. Had a home-cooked lunch and dinner (that was SO good!) with good wine and lindt chocolate. Strolled the city and the walls, sat on park benches, wrote in journals, took photographs, chatted, oh, and napped in the afternoon.

Nice little incongruity – Scottish bagpipe player serenading the church goers on Sunday morning

Piazza del Giglio – this square would be pumping in opera season, the theatre is here

Inside what was once the Roman theatre, now filled with shops, restaurants and apartments

Close-up curve of the theatre

This would be the perfect place to come back to, rent a villa in the surrounding area for a month and do a combination of hanging out and day trips to the many areas within reach by car. Have to look into that. Anyone interested?

Piazza San Michele

Buskers in San Michele on Sunday morning

Piazza Napoleone


About bontaks

Nic is the the 'Bon' part of 'Bontaks.' Together we are Nic and John - two travel-addicted teachers who enjoy every opportunity to go places, meet people and experience life.

5 Replies to “Lucca”

  1. It is interesting how each town has it’s own nuances…and how you begin to pick those out the further you go in your travels….so do you want to migrate there permanently? It sounds like you are getting very cosy there! Keep those B/W photos coming! The ‘bike collection ‘ series is already one book… there is such an interesting array of them! As for the chocolate you just can’t beat it! mmmmmm….As I continue to read your postings I am longing for a trip away….

  2. Hello gorgeous ones:-)Life’s been a wee bit INSANE lately, but my rare moments of peace are often spent dreaming away over your photos.Now John, I need you to coach my mother,-recently returned from the British isles (2 week holiday) with 400 bloody photos. If you could somehow convince her that 2 good shots of Tintern Abbey are more appropriate than 20…I’d be most grateful:-) (The ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ dry up after about 4 shots for me).I don’t know if you’ve checked your emails recently but Doug wants to do a repeat season of AYLI in Novemeber at the river…Let’s put it like this,-I will if you’re gunna…:-)Maybe..possibly…if my schedule allows…etc etc..banana banana..Anyway, COMPLETELY in love with your trip and would like the secret to Nic’s grgeous figure maintenace in the face of all that chocolate/wine/food. Girl, you’re an alien, -you should weigh at least 100kgs by now (I sure as hell would!).Love and hugs-Cath xoxo

  3. Hi Nic & John,Have loved tripping around with you vicariously….remembering my trip 20 yrs ago at this time. Enjoyed all the arty shots John and the witty comments Nic, loved the food trail and the cobblestones aaah europe! I have been busy while you have been away…will reveal all when you touch down back home here in the Mts. Lucca was my most favourite town also…I remember sitting on the side of a small aqueduct in the centre of the town..pinching myself…THIS was Europe!Thanks for the card…lots of love Trish & Gra in Wenty.

Leave a Reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.